Remove Exhaust Headers
Since my slip-on exhaust mufflers were already removed, all that was involved was to:
- Remove the right side read brake lever assembly (a pin and 3 bolts)
- Loosen and remove two bolts holding the read section of each header to the frame
- Loosen the clamp on the crossover section of the exhaust pipes
- Loosen and remove the 2 bolts on each side of the engine cylinder blocks that hold the pipes into the cylinder exhaust ports.
Maunde Speed Shop – Finned Exhaust Clamps
In the course of researching this modification, I ran across a great little product by Maund Speed Shop in Pasadena, California. They call them their “Finned Exhaust Clamps.” Basically these are cast aluminum fins that clamp over the stock exhaust pipe as shown below. They cost $120 for a pair.
These look much more like the original Triumph Bonneville’s of the 1960’s and 70’s. I plan to use these to clamp the heat wrap tape at the cylinder port end of the pipe. I plan to use stainless wire or a clamp at the other end.
Sunday, March 2, 2014 Update – Wrap Headers
1 – Cleaning
I cleaned each header thoroughly with rubbing compound and Gunk parts cleaner.
2 – Preparation
Next I prepared the exhaust tape by soaking it in a pail of water for 10-15 minutes. This makes the tape more flexible and easier to work with.
I also gathered some of the tools I would need and had them close at hand.
3 – Wrapping
I put one header in a vise to free my hands to concentrate on the wrapping. I started at the exhaust end (a tip I learned from YouTube, so that the tape seams face the rear of the bike, and don’t catch dirt and moisture as easily). After I got the tape started a few turns, I clamped it in pace with a stainless steel tie I purchased at an O’Reilly auto parts store.
I worked my way up toward the front of the pipe, overlapping about 1″ or half of the tape on each turn. I had to do some fancy wraps to cover around the rear mount, and the crossover pipe.
Once I reached the top, I ended the tape just shy of the stock cooling fins, cut off the tape, folded the end under about 1/2″ and the applied the Maunde Cooling Fin as a clamp to hold it in place. I also added a stainless tie to hold the front edge of the tape down.
I repeated the process on the other header.
I slipped the completed header set together so it would stand on its own and put it in a warm place to dry. I used some more time to clean the clamps and bolts that will be used to mount everything back on the Bonneville. I’m very pleased with how these are looking.
I mounted the pipes back on the bike and ran the engine while the bike was on the jack to cure it with the heat from the pipes. Most of the smoke is gone in 30 minutes, but I am still getting a whif every now and then days later.
NOTE! I have it from a trustworthy authority that it is never a good idea to leave your engine idling for extended time while a Bonneville is parked on the side stand. The crankshaft on the right (high) side does not get enough oil in this position and you can burn out your engine doing this! It is also advised to run a fan on the engine while it is idling on a level jack or center stand.