Triumph Bonneville – A Personal Moto Blog https://triumphbonneville.org One Chicago area guy's experience with a 2008 Hinckley Triumph Bonneville and after market products, do-it-yourself garage modifications, racing and rides! Tue, 08 Aug 2017 14:53:32 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://i0.wp.com/triumphbonneville.org/wp-content/uploads/cropped-Triumph-Bonneville-Site-Icon.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Triumph Bonneville – A Personal Moto Blog https://triumphbonneville.org 32 32 34930683 Biltwell Recoil Handgrips https://triumphbonneville.org/biltwell-recoil-handgrips/ https://triumphbonneville.org/biltwell-recoil-handgrips/#respond Sun, 16 Jul 2017 23:13:34 +0000 https://triumphbonneville.org/?p=5575

Biltwell Recoil Handgrips

I’ve been using the 1″ Granturismo black handlebar grips from Bellacorse for a number of years now.

This April, I went on a 4 day trip with some buddies to visit Aerostich in Duluth, Minnesota and we ran into some rainy, cold weather on the way. At Aerostich, I picked up a pair of Triple Digit Covers, which are really nice weatherprood nylon rain covers designed to fit over your regular gloves and keep them dry. Using them on the way home I realized how hard it was to keep a grip on the Granturismo rubber material when wet. They are harder rubber/plastic in makeup than most of your modern, more “gummy” hand grips.

So, I went online and did some research, discovering the Biltwell Recoil Grips in the process. They have a similar shape to the Ganturismo’s – which I like – but are made of softer, “gummier” material, with a nice “cross-hatch” grip pattern.

So, I used my trusty Amazon Prime account to order a pair of Biltwell GR-GCY-01-BK Black 1″ Recoil Grips for $17.95. They arrived 2 days later as promised!

After they arrived and I inspected them, I realized they were not designed for bar-end mirrors. They had having closed just like the Granturismo’s. In the past I have cut off the ends by hand with box cutters, with varying degrees of success on the cleanliness of that cut. I wanted the finish look of the Recoils to be better, so I went back online to do some research. Using trusty Google, within a few minutes I discovered that Motion-Pro made a handy kit specifically for this purpose that includes 1″ and 7/8″ cutters. So, I ordered the Motion Pro 08-0335 Grip End Cutter from Amazon for $24.29, which arrived 2 days later!

Today, I had a chance to use the cutter and then install the grips on my 2008 Bonneville. The Motion-pro cutter worked flawlessly. I screwed the 1″ cutter onto the end of the punch shaft, inserted it into the Biltwell grip, laid the end of the grip against a piece of scrap wood, and hammered it a couple of times until it cut through the end of the grip. I pulled it out and inspected my work and voila, a perfectly round 1″ hole at the end of the grip! I repeated the process on the other grip, and was ready to install them.

Next, I removed my CRG Hindsight Lanesplitter Bar End Mirrors with Billet Internal Adapters that I had purchased from Revzilla and installed in June of 2016.

I know from experience how much work it can be to get the Granturismo grips off, so to make things easy and take less time, I simply sliced them off with a heavy duty, sharp box cutter.

Following the instructions on the Biltwell box, I used WD-40 to lubricate the inside of the grips, and the outside of the bars, and just slid them on and into place. Within minutes they were dry enough and good to go.

Then I re-installed the CRG mirrors and positioned them for optimum rear viewing. Once I had everything back in place and checked over, I took it out for a spin. Wow, what a difference! The Recoils are so much more comfortable than the Ganturismo’s, and require less grip to twist and maintain the throttle position. My hands immediately fell in love with the new grips!

Here are the results of today’s work.

I am very pleased with how this upgrade and modification went, both in function and in visual appeal. The acid test will be when I ride on the next rainy day and test out the Aerostich Triple Digits on these grips. I am pretty confident my grip is going to be much easier and better with these than when compared with the harder, slicker surface Granturismo’s.

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New YSS Shocks (or Now, I Don’t Want A Tiger So Much, Anymore…) https://triumphbonneville.org/new-yss-shocks-or-now-i-dont-want-a-tiger-so-much-anymore/ https://triumphbonneville.org/new-yss-shocks-or-now-i-dont-want-a-tiger-so-much-anymore/#respond Sat, 15 Jul 2017 23:19:35 +0000 https://triumphbonneville.org/?p=5570 Introduction

In a previous post, I mentioned Aad and Mike Schram, a father-son team who rode around the world. Aad (the dad) made the trip on a Bonneville T-100. Along their journey, the pair stopped in at the YSS headquarters in Thailand. Aad had been running the same shocks I have been: a pair of Hagon 2810’s. So, his story about replacing them caught my attention. His shocks had finally given out. While at YSS, the R&D technicians mapped a new design for the suspension of the Bonneville and produced a set of rear shocks and fork adjustments that would make the Bonneville a lot more ADV capable — able to handle punishing roads, or even non-existent ones, with ease.

Aad and Mike run Nomad-ADV in their home country of The Netherlands. Through Nomad-ADV, they are selling the suspension configuration developed for them by YSS. I got in touch with Aad and discussed my wants. Since my bike is a mag wheel Bonnie, I don’t have the 19 inch front wheel that Aad’s T-100 has. I was concerned that might make a negative difference. But, we decided to forge ahead and try to arrive at a good configuration for a Bonneville with 17 inch front wheel.

I decided to do this project in two phases: install Scrambler length rear shocks first, then add 20mm (and a PD Valve) to the front forks. To make the fork adjustments, I have to send the forks to The Netherlands, so that Aad can modify them and send them back to me. If nothing else, that sounds to me like something I should wait until winter to do. ūüėČ

Aad presented me with two rear shock options:

  1. The RZ, which has adjustable damping, adjustable compression and adjustable length (+/- 5mm each way)
  2. The RG, which has all of the features of the RZ, plus adjustable rebound. The RG has an external reservoir.

I decided to go with the RZ’s and ordered them from Mike (Aad’s son) on June 16. I received them 3 weeks later. Nice and fast!

Installation Day

One of the first things I noticed about the YSS Shocks was the bushings. They don’t use a rubber bushing like my Hagon’s did. Instead, they use a sealed metal bushing, which pivots inside the eyelet. I like this — I’m thinking it will not deteriorate as severely over time as the Hagon bushing did.

The 360mm YSS RZ, from Nomad-ADV.

 

My 330mm Hagon 2810’s. These are almost 4 years old, now.

 

Sadly, I realized I was going to have to remove the exhaust to do this work. I *hate* removing the exhaust, especially the one on the right side. For some reason, it’s a REAL pain in the ass to remove.

 

A comparison of my outgoing Hagon 2810’s and the incoming YSS RZ. That extra 30mm really shows!

After removing the Hagons, I gave them a close inspection. Overall, they’ve done well. But, I can see the bushings beginning to deteriorate. So, it’s good that I’m removing them.

Close-up of the removed Hagon 2810.

 

The new RZ in place.

Exhaust re-mounted and Holan frame re-attached.

 

Everything back on and buttoned up! (Except for my focus, apparently…)

Right side detail.

With the extra 30mm, the rear wheel is now at almost the exact same height as my Triumph center stand. As such, it makes the center stand a little bit more wobbly than I expected. Not sure what to do about that.

YSS RZ rear shocks, seen from the rear.

Also, the raised rear wheel gives a bit more lean on the sidestand. I may end up getting a Scrambler sidestand, to help equalize things.

A new posture: raised rear wheel = more lean on the sidestand.

Lean

Impressions

I took her for a ride after finishing everything. What a joy! Around where I live, there are some streets that are concrete slab and which don’t have the smoothest transition at the expansion joints. After the rear shock switch, I still felt those bumps — but, only through the handlebars.

More important was the railroad crossing test. We have some pretty rough crossings where I typically have to stand (a good practice anyway!) in order to avoid bottoming out the rear. With the new RZ’s, those crossings were dead easy. Very pleased! I continued my ride to some of the crappiest roads I know around here (Butterfield Road, anyone?) and the experience was very smooth.

Also, now that the back end is up higher, the front drops into corners more quickly. This, along with a 17 inch front wheel, makes for an extremely nimble Bonnie. This will diminish after the front fork extension work is done. But, until then, it’s more fun!

Until now, I had been thinking in the back of my mind, “If you’re really serious about taking your riding off of the pavement, you may need to seriously think about a Tiger, an F800, a KLR650 or a KTM, in order to get the ground clearance you need.” After today’s installation, though, I’m not so sure that will really be necessary.

If you’re like me and looking to adventurize your Bonneville, increased ground clearance and suspension travel are two things you’ll need to address. The YSS setup from the fine father-and-son team at Nomad-ADV will definitely get you on the right track. Please, drop by their website. Also, check out their travel blog. It’s inspiring stuff!

 

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The History of Triumph Motorcycles Video https://triumphbonneville.org/the-history-of-triumph-motorcycles-video/ https://triumphbonneville.org/the-history-of-triumph-motorcycles-video/#respond Tue, 18 Apr 2017 15:56:19 +0000 http://triumphbonneville.org/?p=5293

Here’s a great video putting the entire history of Triumph Motorcycles in a single little neat package.

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Holan Racer Panniers for the Bonneville https://triumphbonneville.org/holan-racer-panniers-for-the-bonneville/ https://triumphbonneville.org/holan-racer-panniers-for-the-bonneville/#respond Mon, 20 Mar 2017 13:29:08 +0000 http://triumphbonneville.org/?p=5265 UPDATE: 5/2/2017

Just back from the Duluth trip. After 5 days of cold temperatures, rain and even some rain mixed with snow, plus your basic horizontal prairie rain storm, the panniers stayed bone dry. They also stood up well to an accidental bike drop. Very happy.

 

Introduction

I’m an adventure spectator. I like watching the videos of the back country discovery routes, I’ve watched Ewan and Charlie ride “The Long Way Round” and I will probably watch their second series, “Long Way Down” (Scotland to Africa).

I’ve driven ’round Newfoundland and envied the riders on their ADV bikes (Triumph Tigers, mostly) from my rental car. I’ve read “Jupiter’s Travels”. I listen to the Adventure Rider Radio podcast (and have spent a small fortune on their sponsor products). A lot of these dreams will probably stay dreams. But, it’s healthy to dream.

I’m working my way toward longer touring, in small steps. Duluth and Lake Superior are my next steps, this coming spring. I’d like to see what I can do to change my Bonneville’s status from commuter bike to something a little bit more ADV-ish.

So, after reading about some folks who are traveling the world on a couple Bonnevilles and a Yamaha, I became interested in the panniers they were using. They’ve chosen some made by an firm in Poland, called Holan. Before releasing their own pannier design to market, Holan had been a manufacturer for Touratech. As they broke off on their own and expanded their design portfolio, Holan added designs for the Bonneville to the normal stable of pannier designs for Triumph Tigers, KTMs and BMWs. The folks from Earth Roamers chose Holan’s pannier for their Bonnevilles and, after two years of constant travel, they seem to be holding up quite well.

Now, my Bonneville a) is a mag wheel version, which is smaller than the Earth Roamers’ T100s and b) has slightly upswept exhausts, where the T100’s are more of a straight line. My exhaust will interfere with the square, stock pannier design — which is quite tall. Holan recently came out with a design to accommodate this type of exhaust: the Racer Pannier. I liked the look of it well enough to give it a try. So, I ordered a pair.

The experience of working with Holan

Well, it can be a bit of a challenge. They don’t tend to be very communicative. You place your order, you see it enter a status of “Payment Accepted” and then you watch it stay that way for about a month. Or more. Then, one day, suddenly the order is marked complete. There was no intermediate “In Production” stage. You do not get a tracking number, as the shipment is sitting in customs, in Germany, for however long customs wants to take with it. After it clears customs, if you ask Holan, they will get you the UPS tracking number. But, they will not simply send you the tracking number as a matter of course.

Now, when all was done, I did not come out of the experience feeling in any way dissatisfied. But, be forewarned, you will not find it like ordering from Amazon, or RevZilla. It takes more work than that. If you can handle that, please read on.

The Pannier Frame

The Holan Racer Pannier Frame

Last fall, I ordered Holan’s frame and installed it. It’s a solid piece — really heavy duty. A couple years ago, I converted some ammo cans into panniers and mounted them on some very wobbly frames, for a weekend trip. These are much sturdier.

Ideally, the frame should probably be off the bike to facilitate fitting the mounting hardware as tightly as possible. In a case where you order the frame and the panniers together, this will probably be how you do this project. But, since I had already installed the frames, I decided to leave them on the bike and trace the profile onto the boxes, before fitting the mounting hardware. You’ll see the details in a minute.

Arrival and Unboxing

A box from overseas! ūüôā

…with a couple pretty black boxes inside.

 

Featuring optional carrying handle.

Mounting hardware. You have to mount this to the pannier yourself.

One other point on the experience — there are no instructions for installing the mounting hardware. Now, I knew about this from a video where Ron West installed Holan panniers on his BMW, so I expected this. But, it was still a bit of a disappointment that the only instructions are on Holan’s site in the form of a CAD illustration of the finished product — that’s it. So, you have to be inclined to figure it out for yourself. I generally am. But, the realization that you can drill a hole in the wrong place (leaving you with a NOT waterproof pannier) can be a little nerve wracking.

This is all the instruction you’ll get. It’s enough for some, I suppose.

Product Overview

Taking a close inspection of the pannier, I was very pleased with the workmanship. I may have been disappointed with the lack of instructions, but I was not at all disappointed with the build quality.

I chose the optional matching keyed locks for these. They are very good locks.

The locks serve as hinges, as well. This is a detail of the lock on the opposite side of the pannier. The lid is pivoting open on this lock.

There is some really nice welding that goes into the construction of these. The black powder coating is nicely done, too.

Assembly

As I said, earlier, I positioned the panniers along the installed pannier frame and traced the outline on the pannier box. This can be a little inaccurate, so if you follow the same process, you should check your work as you go. I found that it’s best to install two of the three mounting points and then check how it’s fitting. Doing that will help you get the best position for the third mounting point, and the best overall fit when the pannier is mounted to the frame.

Tracing the inside circle of the frame onto the pannier.

Aligning the brackets to the outline.

You will need three drill bit sizes for this project. The main bolts involved are 8mm and 6mm. In addition to that, there are two stabilizing fasteners — one is a lag screw and the other is a bolt and nut combination. These are both 2mm. (All measurements taken with caliper and quoted from memory.) My drill bits didn’t cover the two larger sizes, so I had to buy some. Of course, my local Ace only had SAE — no metric. The ones that come closest are shown below.

The nearest equivalent to 6mm and 8mm.

Ad-Hoc Instructions.

From this point on, I’d like to treat this write-up as a fill-in for the instructions that I would like to have received. These will be somewhat informal, so I hope you’ll indulge me. I’ll try my best.

We’ll start with what I’m calling the anchor point, or “Bracket A”.

Bracket ‘A’: the anchor point. This is the part that grabs the frame first. (2 x 25mm M6x1.0 allen head bolts.)

NOTE: the photo shows an incorrect mounting. The external metal bracket is threaded. If I had thought it through better, I would have realized that the bolt heads should be¬†inside the pannier box, with the tail end of the bolt grabbing the threads in the bracket and securing the whole thing from within. I didn’t catch on yet, before taking the photo. You should take note.

“Bracket B” is located directly above Bracket A. In addition to the primary bolt, this bracket is stabilized with a secondary stabilizing bolt and nut. You’ll see the hole for it in the interior picture, below.

Bracket B.

Bracket B, inside the pannier. The second, smaller hole is where you drive through a small stabilizing bolt and secure it with a nut.

It’s at this point that you should take the pannier to the frame and check the fit of the two mounting points you have just installed. Bring the hardware for the third and final mounting point along with you, and mark where you should drill the holes for it, taking into account how the first two points are lining up with the frame.

This last mounting point is “Bracket C” — the corner bracket. It consists of a primary bolt, which secures a V bracket over the pannier frame, using tension. In addition, this mounting point is stabilized through the use of a lag screw, which is driven into the plastic puck from inside the pannier box, using a T20 torx bit.

Bracket C.

Stabilizing lag screw, for bracket C.

Stabilizing lag screw for bracket C will require a T20 torx bit, to drive it in.

Bracket C inside the pannier. It is stabilized with the previously shown lag screw, which threads into the plastic puck, on the outside of the pannier.

Both Bracket B and Bracket C have tension adjuster knobs screwed onto the main bolt, on the interior side of the pannier wall. The bolt threads receive a black nylon end nut as a cover for the thread ends.

Tension adjuster knob and nylon cap. (Bracket C.)

All brackets in place. Ready to fit the pannier to the frame.

“Wait: so, what about Bracket A?”, you may ask. After all, mounting those bolts backward can’t possibly have provided anything like a solid fastening — there were no nuts! Exactly so. That’s why I ran to the hardware store and bought 2 M6x1.0 bolts that were 5mm longer (30mm), along with some M6x1.0 nuts. Those are what you see in the photos, doing what the Holan designers intended the 25mm bolts to do when driven in from the inside of the pannier. I will probably change it within the next week.

Mounted!

Reverse and repeat.

Adventure Bonnie is ready for a trip. (Even if it’s only to the grocery store, for now.)

Conclusion

I have yet to log any long distance miles with these panniers. But, so far, I’m really happy with them.

Pro’s
  • Sturdy, high quality construction.
  • Waterproof.
  • Lockable (if you add the option).
  • Endorsed by experienced riders.
Con’s
  • Communication throughout the production process can be a bit scarce. Be prepared to nag them.
  • Lack of instructions for installation. (Hopefully, this blog post fixes that.)
Overall

If you’re looking for some good hard luggage for your Bonneville, I can wholeheartedly endorse Holan’s. Check them out. And let us know if you have any questions.

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The BSA brand may be coming back? https://triumphbonneville.org/the-bsa-brand-may-be-coming-back/ https://triumphbonneville.org/the-bsa-brand-may-be-coming-back/#respond Tue, 25 Oct 2016 16:01:33 +0000 http://triumphbonneville.org/?p=5208 Here’s an interesting¬†new development for British motorcycle brand enthusiasts!

bsa-2

Read more here: http://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/2016/october/mahindra-acquire-bsa-motorcycles/

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EFI Tuning – Triumph Twin Power https://triumphbonneville.org/efi-tuning-triumph-twin-power/ https://triumphbonneville.org/efi-tuning-triumph-twin-power/#comments Fri, 07 Oct 2016 11:52:30 +0000 http://triumphbonneville.org/?p=5169 My bike is an EFI Bonneville. Tuning it is a different procedure from tuning a carbureted bike. Tuning an EFI involves computers and software and, even though I program for my living, on most days I feel I’ve had enough of computers. Fortunately, this isn’t too difficult.

Why Custom Tune?

Not long after I got my Bonneville, I started hearing all about the merits of removing your O2 sensors, removing the airbox (or the baffle from inside, but leaving the box — an alternative that has the advantage of leaving behind a little extra waterproofing), removing air injection and adding “free flowing exhaust”. Once you’ve made these mods, you want to tune your engine to take full advantage of them.

Randy has documented performing this kind of tune on his carbureted Bonneville — I thought I’d write up how I did it on my EFI Bonneville.

Tune Software

The primary app people use to carry out their tune is TuneECU.

From its website,

“TuneECU is a software for¬† reprogramming, diagnosis and testing of the Engine Control Unit (ECU)
fitted to Electronic Fuel Injected (EFI) models from Triumph, KTM,¬†Aprilia¬†Benelli, Ducati, Moto Guzzi, Gilera, BMW, Husqvarna & Moto Morini. “

The home page of the TuneECU site contains some rather scary warnings about use of the software and how dangerous it can be in the wrong hands. Fair enough. But, no need to be scared: a sizable community has grown up around it. You can find a lot written about its use on Triumphrat. Some examples:

The aftermarket tune community have a lot of “homebrew” tunes. These tunes are free (usually) and can be found at various places online. Often, people take these tunes to their local dealer’s dyno to use as the basis for a customized tune for their bike.

Time on a dyno at my local dealer is fairly expensive. But, in the discussions I read on Triumphrat, I learned about Triumph Twin Power (TTP) (owned by Mike Cripps, aka “PieMan” — you can hear an interview with him on the Cafe Racer podcast).

TTP sells several tunes for Triumph Twins, each one customized for a combination of modifications:

  • airbox removed, or only airbox baffle removed
  • short free flowing exhaust, or long free flowing exhaust, or just TORS
  • performance cams
  • 2-into-1 configuration
  • etc…

By my last count, he has 17 different tunes for the Bonneville alone. He has other sections covering Scrambler, Speedmaster and Thruxton.

Mike has designed each of these tunes around a dyno run with the specific model of twin (Bonneville, Thruxton, Speedmaster or Scrambler), fitted with the specific modifications. My configuration is:

This configuration is covered by Mike’s Bonneville tune #3.

I should mention that when you purchase a tune from him, it comes with a custom version of TuneECU.

Well, enough background. Let’s get on with the process.

Things You Need

Prepping for an EIF tune installation.

Prepping for an EFI tune installation.

You need very little, but a lot of what you need is fairly atypical for an “ordinary” day of motorcycle maintenance.

First, you need a bike. (Okay: that’s not atypical — that’s a constant…)

First (really!), you need an ODB-2 cable.

ODB2 cable. This one was purchased from Triumph Twin Power.

ODB2 cable. This one was purchased from Triumph Twin Power.

One of the above links goes to a thread on Triumphrat, where people discuss the fact that there are good cables and there are bad cables. I bought mine from Triumph Twin Power and I’d recommend you do the same.

Computer Configuration

You will need a computer and it’s got to be a Windows computer.

Before you connect the ODB2 cable to your computer, you will need to install drivers for it. I know that sounds like a pain, but it’s really pretty easy. The instructions for installing the drivers and the download link are here. I chose to download the EXE (rather than downloading the DLLs and having to find where / how to install them) for my OS (Windows 10) and ran it as administrator. It installed the drivers without any problems.

The tune process can take about 30 minutes, at most. Before you begin, make sure your computer isn’t set to go to sleep, or has any other power saver features enabled. You can re-enable them later, if they’re important to you. But, turn them off for now. You don’t want the tune process interrupted. For that reason, I’d also recommend using a laptop, so that you won’t need to worry about power outages. (Built-in battery backup, and all that.)

Windows PC. (I'm ordinarily a Mac user. But, I can flex...)

Windows PC. (I’m ordinarily a Mac user. But, I can flex…)

Environment

I can’t stress this enough: *ventilate!*. You will be running your bike at idle for at least 10 minutes, maybe as much as 20. If you’re in a garage, you need to move the air in and out of your space. Carbon monoxide poisoning sneaks up on you.

Garage fan. Indispensable in the hot summer, also vital for this particular task...

Garage fan. Indispensable in the hot summer, also vital for this particular task…

Prep Work

Establishing a connection between bike and computer requires a good healthy charge from your battery for the duration of the exercise. You will have your ignition on, but you won’t have your engine running, for at least 3 minutes (based on my experiences). So, there are a couple things you should do to prepare for this.

First, about an hour before you start, I’d recommend hooking your battery up to a battery tender. There are many ways to do this: one of the most common is to hook directly to the battery terminals (just like you were going to jump start your bike). In my case, I have added a Powerlet outlet to my bike, on an unswitched circuit. So, I can simply plug my battery tender directly into the Powerlet socket and my battery will receive a trickle charge. This will help get your battery up to its best level for the work to come.

Connecting a battery tender through the bike's Powerlet socket.

Connecting a battery tender through the bike’s Powerlet socket.

You’ll also want to disable any device that puts a drain on your battery. The instructions from TTP suggest pulling fuse number 9 (shown below), which powers the headlight. I suggest additionally pulling #8, which is the 5 amp fuse to the left (sadly, not pulled in the photo), which powers the tail light. With both fuses pulled, you should have little trouble with low battery charge during this operation.

Fuse number 9 pulled. Consider also pulling the fuse to the left of it.

Fuse number 9 pulled (fifth position, top row). Consider also pulling the 5 amp fuse immediately to the left of it (number 8).

Finally, you will need to remove the seat. This will give you access to the ECM connection cable, on your bike.

Seat removed.

Seat removed.

Hmm: and I was worried about bugs in the *software*...

Hmm: and I was worried about bugs in the *software*…

Installation Steps

This section will mostly be screenshots, as Tuneloader’s onscreen directions are pretty clear and very straightforward. HOWEVER, there are one or two details that were not mentioned in the instructions. I will be calling those out, here.

Connecting the cable to the ECU.

Connecting the cable to the ECU. The other end is a USB connection, and connects to your computer’s USB port.

Launching TuneECU. Remember to Run as Administrator!...

Launching TuneECU. Remember to Run as Administrator!…

Yes. You really do want to do this...

Yes. You really do want to do this. (It’s not making changes to your computer, anyway. It’s making changes to your bike.)

Step 1

Step 1

Download screen

Download screen

Successful download. No error codes!

Successful download. No error codes!

Adaption Reset step: now's when you turn on your engine.

Adaption Reset step: now’s when you turn on your engine.

This is where I need to chime in with a note that was not included in the directions. Notice the third bullet point above:

“Once connected, pull out the cold start knob and idle the engine.”

In my opinion, that’s just not explicit enough for newbies, or even for experienced riders who are new to doing this particular kind of maintenance.

Specifically, you need to pull out the cold start knob only long enough to get your engine started! (You may not even need it at all.) Once your engine is running, you can push the cold start knob back in.

This wasn’t clear to me. As a result, I left the knob out for the full 20 minutes. I got two things for doing that: glowing, red hot headers and no TPS green light. So, I had to do all of this over, the next morning, once my engine was cold again.

So, in brief, this stage should go like this:

  1. Attempt to start your engine
  2. If your engine didn’t start, pull out the cold start knob and try again
  3. If your engine still didn’t start, you will need to figure out what the problem is and fix it. But, probably, your engine did start. Push the knob back in. Step away from the bike: don’t TOUCH the throttle (or the process will self-cancel and you’ll have to wait for a cold engine, again).
  4. Switch to the Monitor tab, like the directions say, and wait for the green light on the TPS sensor. For me, it appeared after 12 minutes.
TuneECU's Monitor screen. (Sorry about the reflections!)

TuneECU’s Monitor screen. (Sorry about the reflections!)

The TPS light (to the left of the tachometer, which is the large LCD readout at dead center) turned green for me after 12 minutes. At this point, you switch off the ignition and shutdown the program on your computer.

Disconnect the cable, replace the fuses you removed and put the seat back on. You are now done!

Final Assessment

As I mentioned, I was caught short by the directions to “pull out the cold start knob and idle the engine”. I took it literally and ran the entire adaption reset with the cold start knob pulled out. I never got a green light and so I stopped the procedure after 20 minutes. On a test ride, afterward, I felt hesitation and stuttering at about 3000RPM (which is where my bike “idled” with the cold start knob pulled out).

On a second day, with a cold engine again (and after some reading online), I re-did the procedure — but without the cold start knob, which I didn’t even need as my engine started fine without it. The engine idled at 950-1050 RPM, the adaption program gave me a green light after only 12 minutes. A test ride afterward was smooth as butter, through the whole RPM range.

Throttle snatchiness, which had been noticeable at the low end of rev, is now gone. Excessive fuel smell is now also gone. Can’t report on mileage, as I’ve only been doing local short rides. I’d rather get a long ride in, before quoting mileage.

I’m really quite pleased with what Triumph Twin Power has done with their tunes and what this tune has done for my Bonneville. Because of my good experiences, I’m looking at an attractive 6 Pot Front Brake Caliper from TTP, as a result. If I get it, I’ll write it up here.

TTP Tunes: Recommended!

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Triumph Announces 2017 T100 & T100 Black https://triumphbonneville.org/triumph-announces-2017-t100-t100-black/ https://triumphbonneville.org/triumph-announces-2017-t100-t100-black/#comments Tue, 04 Oct 2016 15:39:46 +0000 http://triumphbonneville.org/?p=5188 More details coming on October 25th.

Get more details on the T100

Get more details on the T100 Black

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Triumph Announces New Street Cup https://triumphbonneville.org/triumph-announces-new-street-cup/ https://triumphbonneville.org/triumph-announces-new-street-cup/#respond Tue, 04 Oct 2016 15:26:20 +0000 http://triumphbonneville.org/?p=5183 Triumph has released information on a new Bonneville based product called the Street Cup, scheduled for official release on October 25th. It appears to be a cafe racer / Thruxtonized version of the 900cc Street Twin released earlier this year.

Download the product brochure Triumph Street Cup Brochure in PDF format.

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Scottoiler – Part 2: Switching to Dual Injectors https://triumphbonneville.org/scottoiler-part-2-switching-to-dual-injectors/ https://triumphbonneville.org/scottoiler-part-2-switching-to-dual-injectors/#respond Tue, 27 Sep 2016 02:49:06 +0000 http://triumphbonneville.org/?p=5138 In a previous post, I wrote about installing the Scottoiler vSystem. I’ve been running this system for a little over a year, now, and it’s been working well for me. Perhaps too well: my attitude toward my chain became so carefree that I ultimately let it go too long without adjusting the tension. Then, I threw it at about 40MPH, in southern Wisconsin. Mercifully, I, my ankles and my bike survived without much damage. I mention this only to explain the beat up lug nuts you will see in the accompanying photos.

Scottoiler Dual Injector

The Scottoiler Dual Injector: a device that gives more coverage, while being positioned less obstrusively.

When I originally installed the Scottoiler, one thing that I wasn’t too thrilled about was the way the oil injector mounted onto the bike.

Stock Scottoiler injector: mounts on rear axle.

Stock Scottoiler injector: mounts on rear axle.

The stock injector mounted to the Bonneville, via the rear axle nut. This caused me some concern on a particular point: adjusting chain tension requires loosening this nut. Loosening this nut rotates the injector out of ideal position for lubricating the chain. Tightening this nut rotates the injector clip upward, into the chain tensioner. This deforms the injector clip, which bends the injector away from the bike, causing the chain oil to miss the chain as it drips. (You’re basically oiling the road, then. I’m sure the guy behind you has a word of thanks for you — or two.)

Essentially, it is a design that interferes with normal maintenance tasks and which is interfered with by those same tasks. But, since this was all I had, I decided to live with it. On the whole, it didn’t inconvenience me too much. (Although, I might have felt the inconvenience more keenly if I had been doing my regular chain maintenance…)

Dual Injector diagram

Dual Injector diagram

Then, I came across this, on the Scottoiler site. “Whoa!”, I thought. I really liked how this design

  1. mounted to the swingarm, instead of the axle
  2. lubes the chain from two sides, instead of just one.
Top view dual injector

Top view dual injector (diagram from included instructions)

So, I ordered one! And today I installed it. It felt pretty good removing the old stock injector.

Very happy to see this going away.

Very happy to see this going away. (And here, you can see lug nuts that were mangled by a departing chain, earlier this month. Not looking forward to getting those off…)

Removing the old injector and installing the new one was a perfect opportunity to do some chain maintenance.

Aligning the chain, during a tension adjustment.

Aligning the chain, during a tension adjustment.

Mounting the Dual Injector required a minimal tool set. Pictured: #5 allen head, 10mm wrench. Not pictured: clippers for zip ties.

Dual injector mount and required tools.

Dual injector mount and required tools.

Dual injector installation location.

Dual injector installation location.

Dual injector installation location

Dual injector installation location detail

Dual injector installation: final positioning

Dual injector installation: final positioning

Final positioning of the dual injectors was simple enough. The instructions mention that you might need to trim the tips to appropriate length — I found the stock length to be just fine and did no trimming. The tips just skim the surface of the rear sprocket.

With the injectors in place, the last task is to trim the original feeder tube from the reservoir and the new dual injector feeder tube, and then to mate them.

Untrimmed oil delivery tubing.

Untrimmed oil delivery tubing.

Oil delivery tubing, trimmed and joined.

Oil delivery tubing, trimmed and joined.

With the tubing joined together and tucked up neatly, the last thing to do is test the flow rate.

Flow rate instructions.

Flow rate instructions.

Honestly, I have found this is an exercise in trial and error. It takes a few rides to get it dialed in just right. But, it doesn’t take too long (if you’re paying attention and not distracted by gorgeous scenery) and, in the end, you have a nice, generally maintenance-free continuous lubrication mechanism for your drive chain.

The final installation.

The final installation.

Job done!

Total time to install: 1 hour (including chain cleaning and adjustment).

Gains: chain oiled on both sides, while riding; rear axle now free of interference during regular drive maintenance tasks.

Cost: $35.00USD.

Verdict: recommended. If you have a Scottoiler, do yourself a favor a free your rear axle of an unwanted encumbrance, while improving your drive maintenance.

Cheers!

–LH

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2016 Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride – Woodstock, IL https://triumphbonneville.org/2016-distinguished-gentlemans-ride-woodstock-il/ https://triumphbonneville.org/2016-distinguished-gentlemans-ride-woodstock-il/#respond Mon, 26 Sep 2016 15:32:54 +0000 http://triumphbonneville.org/?p=5075 2008-bonneville-1100-impressionist-dgr-760

This year I decided to participate in the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride (DGR –¬†Riding Dapper for a Cause)¬†by riding in the Woodstock, IL event instead of my previous years participation in the larger Chicago event. My reasons were simple… I prefer a smaller group and the longer country road type of ride over the more crowded urban one. Either way, I was raising money for worthy causes: Prostate cancer research and Men’s mental health. I am thankful to a handful of friends who supported me in raising $226 this year. Globally, there were over 56,000 riders who as of this date had raised $3.3M of a $5M goal for the year.

Ride to Windy City Triumph

custom-2008-bonneville-1100-dgr

I spent part of Saturday getting my custom 2008 Bonneville 1100 ready for the Sunday DGR ride.

My day started by dressing a bit more dapper than usual. For me this meant donning a white shirt and a tie, adding some Frye harness boots and a paid wool English¬†style¬†cap of my Dad’s. Also in my pocket was my Oxford City pipe and some good, aromatic tobacco! In addition I still wore my armored, Kevlar-lined Triumph riding jeans and my trusty old armored¬†Triumph leather riding jacket. Leaving my garage shortly after 8 AM, I rode for about 45 minutes on mostly highways out to Windy City Triumph in St. Charles, IL. There I met “JB” Bussert,¬†General Manager of Windy City Triumph, who had some good ol’ Dunkin Donuts and a box of Joe¬†ready!

Ride to Woodstock

After catching up with JB while waiting for others to arrive, we headed out toward Woodstock Triumph, our hosts for the Woodstock DGR Ride. We had a little trouble finding the meeting location, but eventually found it in time to park and meet other riders outside of Ethereal Confections, for a little while before the ride began.

jb-helmet-leaving-wc

JB, General Manager of Windy City Triumph, getting ready to ride a Black 2012 Bonneville T100 in the DGR!

downtown-dgr-gathering

Downtown Woodstock town square gathering point for the DGR

woodstock-pano

Panoramic view of the quaint town square gathering point for the 2016 Woodstock DGR.

The DGR Ride

We left downtown Woodstock, IL ¬†shortly after 11 AM, taking a parade lap around¬†the brick paved main town square once, then heading out of town on a country road. Many¬†motorists stopped to let us pass as a group at stop signs and traffic lights, and usually waved or gave us the “thumbs up.” Matthew lead us through a nice mix of county and state roads, small towns and open farmland.

matthew-thrun

Host, Matthew Thrun leading our riders meeting, going over the route, and recognizing the larger fundraisers on our ride.

dgr-start

Starting the DGR by taking a parade lap around the beautiful Woodstock town square.

rr-crossing

Crossing a railroad track and heading out of Woodstock on a country road.

Midride Stop – Creekside Country Store

Our ride took a breather at midpoint, pulling into the parking area of the Creekside Country Store in Wonder Lake, IL. Again we had a chance to visit with other riders, check out bikes and hydrate and/or use restrooms.

creekside-dgr

Creekside Country Store parking lot.

We had a great assortment of motorcycles and riders on our ride!

We had a great assortment of motorcycles and riders on our ride! Lot’s of Triumph Bonneville’s!

Ending the DGR at Woodstock Triumph

After another great excursion through county and state roads we ended up back at Woodstock Triumph, Woodstock, IL. Most of the group entered the dealership and enjoyed a pizza lunch together, provided by our hosts.

Passing a barn on a country road.

Passing a barn on a country road.

A beautiful red Thruxton 1200 R parked in the shade as we ended our DGR back at Woodstock Triumph.

A beautiful red Thruxton 1200 R parked in the shade as we ended our DGR back at Woodstock Triumph.

Pizza lunch provided at Woodstock Triumph.

Pizza lunch provided at Woodstock Triumph.

I guess we were hungry!

I guess we were hungry!

JB and I checked out the Woodstock Triumph showroom, chatted with other riders and then headed back to our homes.

Woodstock Triumph Showroom

Woodstock Triumph Showroom

I want to recognize and thank Triumph Motorcycles for being a co-sponsor of this global event every year since it started! It definitely adds credibility and loyalty to the brand for this owner/rider!

Triumph Motorcycles

Triumph Motorcycles – branded hoody sweatshirt.

2016 Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride Video – Woodstock, IL

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